Momofuku Ko: Yup, I Went There
- By Robyn Lee
- May 10, 2008
- Comments
- There's food inside!
(If you don't know anything about Momofuku Ko, you might want to catch up with these posts on Grub Street. Or in one sentence, it's David Chang's newest, omakase-style restaurant that is known for being nearly impossible to get a reservation at—aside from having awesome food—although I do know at least 8 people who've already eaten there. I've been hearing and reading about it so much in the past few months that I can't gauge how much the non-NYC-food crazed crowd knows about it.)
First, to get the most oft-ask questions out of the way.
Q: How did you get reservations?
A: I didn't—a friend did. And thus is the laziest way to get into Ko.
Q: How was it?
A: Much more filling than I thought it would be, but then I hadn't realized going into it that it consisted of 15 courses. More or less.
Okay, you probably need more back story that that.
Last Thursday I received an email from Susan, a reader of my blog whom I had never met, asking if I would be interested in eating with her at Ko the following Wednesday because all her foodie friends were busy. The next person to ask after them was, naturally, the gluttonous food blogger. Sucks for them; I felt like a winner! I meet up with a lot of people through my blog and they've all so far turned out to be perfectly normal (aside from that they read my blog), food-loving people. And even if Susan were crazy, I'd still eat with her anyway.
So how did she get the reservation? Like everyone else: preserverance and dumb luck. Or something. I don't believe in fate, but her increasing frustration with her inability to get a reservation resulted in some kind of magical alignment of the Momofuku stars. After muttering/chanting a string of expletives in the name of David Chang (a scene that she reenacted quite realistically during out dinner), she was rewarded with a coveted green check next to the time of 9:10 for May 7.
Ko, which I hadn't realized was in the same space as the old noodle bar, was much more spacious than I thought it would be. I mean, compared to the cramped quarters of the noodle bar. There are only 10 seats (according to that photo at least; I've mostly read that there are 12 seats) that are generously spaced around the kitchen. Because you're sitting just inches away from where your food is being prepared, the food is served to you by the chefs, although there are also waitresses to serve your drinks and take away/set up your plates and silverware.
Even though there was pop/rock music playing, the restaurant felt very...zen. Besides that each customer was given ample space, it felt even roomier because not every seat was occupied during our whole meal. The kitchen was quiet, with the chefs not speaking any more than necessary (nor smiling more than necessary, not that you have to smile to cook). I was probably too loud, come to think of it—I had a lot of talk about considering that I was eating with someone I knew nothing about.
But enough of this boring crap; you want to see FOOD.
I should warn you first though: I hadn't planned on writing much about this dinner or even taking photos, meaning that my brain wasn't in "memorize everything you eat" mode and my descriptions will be worse than usual. Which is pretty poor. Gasp. So I'm going to steal descriptions from Tina and The Momofuku Superlative Matrix, along with the rest of the google-able internet.
As for the "almost no photo-taking" thing, some of my friends have already taken the shit for clicking their cameras away during their meals and I figured with their contributions, I probably wouldn't even have to take photos. But I caved in and, yes, took photos of everything. Did this bother the other customers and chefs? Maybe. Probably. Aside from Susan, I can't really speak for them.
If you were eating at Momofuku Ko this past Wednesday night and my photography annoyed the crap out of you, I'm sorry. On the upside, I doubt you'll ever have to deal with me again. And to give my photography more justification, I'm going to pretend that many of these photos are work-related for when Serious Eats needs a hit of David Chang-made cuisine. (Actually, I took a bunch of photos of the bathroom for an upcoming Serious Eats post. Ha ha.)
How does the meal work? After telling the waitress whether or not you have any food allergies (none for me or Susan, woo!), you're served whatever the chefs feel like blessing you with. Just sit there and devour. Sometimes you and your dining partner will get the same dish, while other times you'll get complementary dishes. To me, the obvious thing to do is share, but Susan and I saw people who weren't splitting the dishes 50/50. That's just doesn't work in my world, man. If you eat with me, we're sharing; case closed.
- One-bite english muffins
We started with mini English muffins with pork fat and chives, and (in the back out of the frame) chicharrons. Each was a one or two bite-affair, although the super-light chicharron was one bite because I ungracefully forced the entire shared of deep-fried puffy pork skin into my not-wide-enough mouth. I wouldn't say that either of these things was particularly memorable—the chicharron had an unfortunately styrofoam-like quality to it—but they delivered pork flavor. I can't say no to pork. Just can't. Dammit.
- Fish ribbons!
Raw fluke in buttermilk, yuzu, and Sriracha poppy seeds: Mm, raw fish. So clean. So smooth. Tastes like...whatever you season it with, in this case a light, creamy sauce with a hint of hotness and little crunchy bits.
- Moar fish!
Raw kampachi with muscat grapes: More raw fish! I liked this more than the fluke, probably just because I like grapes. Sweet grapes and fish—it works.
- Soup!
Pea soup with morels and crawfish: One of my favorite dishes of the night. I love peas. I love peas a lot. Not having eaten everything nature has to offer, I'm already quite sure that peas are one of the most delicious things you can eat raw, ripped fresh out of the pod, disconnected from its womb. Besides that, being blended into a creamy soup is pretty damn happiness-inducing. Each spoonful is a mouthful of spring. I can't recall the mushroom part very well, but unless we experienced massive taste bud fail, Susan and I thought that there bean curd sheets at the bottom.
- More soup
Berkshire pork belly, oyster, and cabbage in kimchi consommé: Do you see that tender pork chunk with the coveted 50/50 meat-to-fat ratio? YES, BRING IT ON. I would happily eat ten of those, and then probably fall ill from rich, fatty pork overload, but it'd be worth it. I liked the soup, even though I was hoping it'd be spicier rather than salty, but...but pork! It doesn't get better than pork.
- Mm, eggeh
Chawanmushi with caviar, asparagus, cashews and argan oil: Another fave of the night. I think I would've liked it more if it had been hot (it was more like room temperature) since that's what I'm used to chawanmushi tasting like, but I'll assume there's a reason it wasn't. The caviar provided neat little pops of salt in every bite and the cashews gave a slight crunch to the silky-smooth egg custard.
- Egg, it exploded
Soft cooked egg with onion soubise and chips: I didn't realize until after I got home that we were probably supposed to mixed this all together like a bibimbap. Fail. Instead we tried to get a bit of each component—egg goo, caviar, onion goo, and baby potato chip matter—into one spoonful. Which was rather hard. As you can see, there was a lot going on in this dish. I can't say it didn't taste good, just that...there were a lot of things in there and I probably didn't eat it correctly. Yeah. I am really unhelpful right now.
- Pasta
Lasagna (or open ravioli?) with snails, morels, ricotta, and spring vegetables (ramps, asparagus, and broccoli rabe flowers): My favorite part was the foamy ricotta sauce. I have no idea why. I also enjoyed the snails. Methinks a dish of just snails and ricotta may not do so well, though.
- Now the fish is cooked
Grilled trout with pickled radish, bacon purée, and almonds: I liked this except for the bacon mash that sat at the bottom of the bowl. ...Yeah, I like pork, but not bacon so much. You're perfectly allowed to think that I'm nuts. That's just my flavor preference, for the fish and its crispified layer of skin to stand alone. Although by "alone" I mean covered in crunchy almond bits. I loved any dish with nuts in it.
- The dish everyone talks about
Shaved frozen foie gras with lychee, Riesling gelée, and pine nut brittle: "You're going to want to lick your bowl clean," is a description I heard more than once about this dish. It's one of the most interesting, surely, with its mix of textures and flavors, and surprisingly addictive. However, I didn't want to lick my bowl clean; I couldn't take the frozen foie gras straight—it was just too strong. When did I become so weaksauce? I love foie gras! But I swear Ko's version was a deathly super-condensed version. The buttery shavings went perfectly with the juicy lychee bits and sweet, crunchy pine nut brittle (and I'll refrain from saying anything about the gelé as you probably already know I don't like anything that tastes like alcohol).
It was around this point that Susan and I felt our stomachs lurch and moan, "Stop eating." Not that we listened. Instead, I braced myself against the table and tried to position myself in a way so that my stomach could expand even further. Fortunately, I was wearing a non-restricting dress, allowing my waistline to grow as much as it wanted to.
- MEAT, MEAT, MEAT
Deep-fried short ribs with braised daikon, mustard seeds, and weeny carrots: Tender short ribs. Perfectly marbled slabs of beef surrounded by a layer of fat. Each bite brings you closer to death. Sweet. Jesus. It didn't need the miso sauce, which I found too heavy and overly masked the flavor of the beef. I just wanted the beef. Beeeeef.
- Chicken!
Chicken roulade filled with I don't know what: Oh god, we were so full. I don't think we finished this. Because, as I said...we were so full. And we hadn't even gotten to dessert yet.
- Sorbets
Cantaloupe sorbet and cashew butter, and kiwi sorbet with apricot goo: These sorbets were awesome. Very smooth, very fruity, not too sweet. Crunchy cashew butter was full of win, and the kiwi and apricot were like eating fresh fruits but better because they were mashed up, frozen, and plated in an appealing manner.
- Apple pie, like McD's
Deep-fried apple pie with sour cream ice cream and toasted miso sauce: I can't say anything wrong about an apple pie that has been deep-fried and dusted with cinnamon sugar—nor could I say that it blew me away. Surely it's much better than the apple pie pocket you could get at McDonald's, but my untrained palate would probably be just as satisfied with that. I thought the miso sauce was too strong for the pie, but I've heard people say that they liked it. Perhaps I don't like straight-up miso.
- Panna cotta, fo shizz
Cereal milk panna cotta with avocado cream, corn flakes, and hazelnut chocolate: I feel like the only person who wasn't into this, perhaps because it was too far removed from my beloved panna cotta. Or maybe it's because I don't eat cereal and thus wouldn't appreciate the taste of milk that has the light touch of cereal, something that the sizable cereal and milk-eating population would be familiar with. Or maybe I was just too full. The chocolate sheet appeared to be semi-melty; I thought it'd be better either totally melty or totally hard. BUT WHAT DO I KNOW; I AM NOT A CHEF.
And then we waddled out of there. I walked back to Penn Station (about two miles, an easy, leisurely walk) to ease the digestive pain.
Susan and I were both very pleased with our meals, although our expectations were probably too high considering all the hype we've listened to for the past few months. I also think that at $85, possibly the most expensive meal I've ever eaten, this dinner was a bargain. It's worth it; if you can go, you definitely should. Just make sure you can set aside two and a half hours for it. I ended up getting home around 2 a.m. (keeping in mind that I had to take the last train back to NJ).
A million thanks to Susan for inviting me to dinner! She's a bro for life. During dinner we found out that we may have possibly crossed paths before in Taiwan; we went to the same school (granted, in completely different grades, but whatever)! If any of you guys went to Taipei American School between 1996-1998, reveal yourself. So many people have been to that school, it doesn't really surprise me when I run into people who were also students there.
Previously:
Birthday Pork-Fest at Momofuku
Death By Momofuku
Ramen, Sandwiches, Cookies, Burgers, Etc
Momofuku, Veniero's, and...egg sammiches
Address
Momofuku Ko
163 1st Ave
New York, NY 10003
Comments
holy crap- how much did this all cost?
Woohoo! You went to Ko!
They finally changed the menu (at least half of it). Now, I wanna go again! >.
The sad fact that after Bruni of the NY Times graced them with a 3-star rating, I know my chances are slim as winning the lottery. :(
you made it look very yummy. i've kinda been wanting to go, but not very much. it's a lot of brain preparation to eat allll that food at once for me. i think my stomach shrunk...
good entry!!!!
Damn, these pictures are ridiculously awesome. I couldn't even get my white balance right in that place. All your shots are super clear!
so, do you take notes while you're eating, or is it all done by memory? the soft cooked egg looks really delicious...
i wanna see the bathroom shots.
Honestly, you've convinced me that what I really like is the ramen and the ssams, and I hope that, while developing his empire, Chef Chang still gives us someplace to find these. A backless stool would be terribly uncomfortable for me, and I hate being overstuffed. So thanks for doing this--now I know I don't have to go. On the whole, I've got to tell you, it sounds kind of meh.
This is probably a stupid question, but there aren't enough stupid questions in the world: Momofuku doesn't have a vegetarian menu, does it? Like if I were to say I'm allergic to meat when asked about allergies...
Looks like a pretty incredible meal - great camera work (or photoshop skills, as the case may be).
I like that you document each dish so we can all compare the descriptions with the photo, and subsequently drool into our keyboards.
How the hell do you get your pictures to look so clear under horrible lighting??? (I'm thinking the interior of the restaurant's not gonna be super bright) Do you use flash? What kind of function do you set your camera to? I take decent pictures in daylight, but at night and indoors, my pictures turn out to be crap. *sniff* HELP ME, OH GREAT ROBYN.
Tina: I don't plan on trying to go back. I think it's definitely worth going to once, but to deal with that reservation system...uh..do not want.. :( And I've never even tried it; I just hear all the hellish stories from my friends, haha.
Irene: U MUST INCREASE STOMACH CAPACITY!
Tristan: THNX!
Danny: Oh, I correct my white balance in Photoshop, not with my camera. I think it's easier that way...aha. I cheat!
Angela: Ah, it's just memory. Or lack of...
The bathroom post should be on serious eats tomorrow! I just have to..um, write it.
Annie: The backless stool is not something that produces comfort, that is true. :( I did enjoy this meal once, but my wallets aren't deep enough to go back for another round. Also, I'll admit that I'd rather have bo ssam. I LOVES ME SOME PORK!!
newoola: Haha..aw, I doubt they have a veg menu. :( Momofuku isn't kind to vegetarians! But I bet they'd whip up some really awesome veg dishes. I mean, just leaving the meat out of some of these dishes (the ones where meat is more like a garnish than the center, at least) would result in some pretty awesome stuff.
Or maybe you can have a bucket of pea soup. YEAAH I'd want that.
Moriah: PHOTOSHOP SKILLS ALL THE WAY!!
I hope you have a keyboard cover.
Jesse: High ISO + steady hands + widest aperture = YAY, PHOTOS. Oh, and photoshop. I have to brighten everything. :\ It's mostly post-production, haha...sigh.
Wow, this was fun! I can barely fathom eating food like this, so it was cool to, um, eat vicariously through your post. I love panna cotta, too. We made it in baking class (though it wasn't baked), and strangely, most of my classmates didn't like it. I wanted to adopt their shares.
I need to ask my boyfriend where he went to school in Taiwan! I think it was before that time period, though.
Hi Robyn!
I’ve been a huge fan of your site (but this is the first time writing in… exciting!) and I can’t believe you’re from TAS! Me too! Graduated class of ’99, was there since 1996.
I love your photography, which is amazing and your writing, which is too funny.
Also lived in NYC around Williamsburg but am now back in Singapore and so reading your blog brings back lots of fond memories.
Robyn, those are BEAUTIFUL photos!!
OMG. I want to go there so badly.
and yes good photos, Robyn!
Dang, I wasn't sure I wanted to keep trying to get a reso but after seeing your photos, I think I must persevere!
Oh my.
I desperately want to go to Ko. I haven't even attempted reservations because for one, I don't have the patience to deal with that system, and secondly, I don't know ANYONE who'd be willing to shell out $85 for a meal that they can't choose. (Laaameeee!) But yes. I'm super thrilled that you took pictures of everything, because it looks fantastic. I think I need to start begging harder =).
Julie: WHY WOULD ANYONE NOT LIKE PANNA COTTA, WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOUR CLASSMATES? :)
Dave: Zomg, another TAS-er! I knew they were everywhere.. ;) Thanks for de-lurking and reading my blog!
And if you have any Williamsburg recs, let me knooow.
Carey: Thanks! Oh, how I love photoshop.
Amy: Just keep logging onto that reservations page...yeah.. ._.
I actually prefer bo ssam. Mmmm!
Front Studio: Good luck! Some people seem to manage getting multiple reservations..luckies!
Kathryn: I'm too impatient also. But the fun of Ko is that you don't know what you're getting! YOU'RE PAYING FOR...SURPRISES. YEH. And whenever you go, the dishes may be totally different. :D
Yay! Finally a nicely lenghthy post! I need my vicarious yummies, after all.
After reading this, I feel like I've eaten there. Thanks for saving me a bunch of money :)
ohhh the exploded egg looks so awesome and oddly enough makes me want to poke it to see if it jiggles...
That fluke dish looks amazing. I love coming here right before lunch. I hate coming here first thing in the morning. Fortunately it's 11:55, so I'm going to go eat now because you've made me hungry!
Hi Robyn! Loved this blog forever but commenting for the first time. It is exciting, this first time. Cue in trumpets! This post necessitated de-lurking. I wasn't quite sure I got this right - but the entire meal cost $85 and it was a mystery till it arrived at your table (meaning, they had a set menu)? I left with the impression that it was worth the money, and I liked being surprised. I can't wait to check this out the next time I'm in New York! *says with misplaced optimism about chances of ever scoring a reservation*
Everything looks so fresh and vibrant! I've never had sashimi before, but I really want to try it. The fluke with the buttermilk looks incredible.
I'm still wary of taking pictures in restaurants. I will in cafes, but I still feel a bit weird at other places. I never know if I should ask first or what, and it seems weird to ask to take pictures for my blog.
OMG, your shots make that food look so incredible. I'm sure it was, but the photos add so much! I'm very jellus.
Mikey: NP! I try my best.
Suze: WIGGLE JIGGLE!!!
Carl: I'm supposed to make you FULL. Cos it's like...you've already eaten!...by staring at the photos...okay, maybe not.
Vanessa: It is times like this that deserve a trumpet fanfare!
I think it's worth the money. A meal like that would cost way more anywhere else in NYC, I'd imagine. And I love being surprised. Maybe it's just human nature, which is why this online store exists.
Christina: Eh, I don't ask about taking photos; if someone doesn't like it, I figure they'll tell me to stop. That's probably inconsiderate, but...I NEED MAH PHOTOS. :[ (Sometimes the waiters make fun of me. Eh well!)
girlie: I'd actually prefer just eating a big hunk of bo ssam, but this stuff was ...uh, very good...and more varied than a chunk of pork. :) My taste buds don't crave much else, I guess!
Hi Robyn,
I've been reading your blog pretty frequently. I love your amusing posts and delectable photos! What a fun feast this must have been. It makes me want to go so much, too bad there isn't a Ko in Toronto.
-Cindy
P.S. Perhaps the chawanmushi was room temperature so the caviar wouldn't cook? I'm used to eating it hot too though. I love eggs!
All i can say is: WHOA.. WANT!
I envy you. Again.
Shame on you for not finishing the foie gras ;)
i want deep fried short ribs and i want them NOW.
make them appear, i command it.
That is the most delicious looking meat I have ever seen, and that meal lineup looks amazzzzing! Thanks for letting me live vicariously.
Oh yea, we're also having a contest on our blog where you could win a package from Lou Malnati's. Check it out!
Cindy: Thanks for delurking! As for the caviar not cooking...sure!...or rather, I dunno! But that sounds good to me. My caviar eating experience is really low. ;_;
Michelle: Maybe you should...MAKE SOME.
Hillary: I'm glad you enjoyed it! Thus is why I take so many photos. :)
Ah, I've been ghosting as well...But this I had to comment! Your photos look beautiful! I know your About section says you use a Canon 20D, but what lens do you use?
Sue: No most ghosting for you!
Ahh, good question: lenses are prolly more important info than the camera. I use a Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8 macro lens. And LOTS OF PHOTOSHOP.
omg, ur food recap cracked me up. i'm all about sharing, too. that's why lazy susan's r great. you can't food hog.
maomau: Lazy susans are also great because then I can more easily take photos of EVERY DISH ON THE TABLE without moving! Bwahahaa.
Very nice pics and wonderful blos as usual! I've been reading your blogs for couple of months, but this is the first time commenting. I hope to score a reservation soon, I've been trying several time with no luck so far.
Great photos. I'll never get that chance.